How to Spot Pure Perfume Oil: What Are Extenders (DPG and TEC) and How Do You Check for Them?

What if we say you are buying your perfume oils twice as expensive? 

Would you believe us?

Probably not because businesses are adamant about what they do with their absurd moral justifications about how they add multiple substances in the perfume oil to 'control' its power.

Although the argument does make sense...but there is a flaw. Which is exactly what this article would argue. Later, you will learn how to spot pure perfume oil, which will help you purchase oils that actually perform for long enough. 

But before that, let's understand the fundamentals. What are DPG, TEC, and many other 'oils' that perfume oil sellers mix into the blend?

Essential Disclaimer!

Before beginning, a disclaimer: we do not claim that these extenders or solvents are obsolete or not useful to the entirety of the perfumery. In fact, we, at Musk al Mahal, sometimes use Fractionated Coconut Oil (FCO), Ambroxan, Dipropylene Glycol, and others to make stronger formulas more bearable and wearable. 

The argument isn't against the essence of oil—again, which is an excellent asset in the industry—rather, the way it is being used. It is often argued that these odorless solvents do not alter the chemistry of the very oil they are being added to, which is, in fact, false. 

What are Oil Extenders?

Before jumping directly into the DPG and ISP, let’s take a moment to understand what these oils are in general. 

Oil extenders are often odorless, colorless substances used in perfumery and cosmetics to strengthen the oil’s lifespan, change its structure, or modify it accordingly. For example, using high-projection aroma chemicals like Ambroxan, Iso E Super, Hedione, or many others can significantly enhance an oil’s projection. 

Similarly, DPG is another oil that perfumers use to modify the oil and increase its quantity. However, the intent behind it can sometimes be malicious. 

Let’s understand what both oils are before proceeding further.

Dipropylene Glycol (DPG) 

Just as we learned, DPG is also an oil extender, so it’s an odorless, colorless solvent, diluent, or carrier. However, it’s one of the main pillars of modern perfumery. Even though it’s basically invisible, it works on the back end to make the fragrance actually usable. 

Here’s how DPG actually helps:

• Pure fragrance oils are sometimes too strong to apply directly to the skin. DPG thins them down to a wearable, skin-safe concentration.

• It’s a fantastic solvent for fragrances and prevents oil sludge from forming, especially at the bottom, and keeps the formula runny enough.

• Unlike alcohol, it doesn’t fly away easily. It's a dense chemical, and its molecules are heavy. They fade gradually, keeping the scent lasting longer. When mixed with scents with fresh, zesty, tarty top notes, this oil can help it last longer.

You see how we listed only positive traits…

Doesn’t it mean, if a business is adding more of it, that just simply would mean the formula would last longer, project better, and not sludge? 

No.

Because, as they say, excess of anything is poison. But we will come back to it after learning a bit about the other extender.

Triethyl Citrate (TEC)

Another seemingly colorless, it isn’t completely colorless like the DPG, odorless substance, Triethyl Citrate (TEC) isn’t completely identical to DPG, but it serves a very similar role in the industry. It’s an ester of citric acid frequently used as a solvent, fixative, and diluent.

TEC helps stabilize volatile ingredients, acts as a light fixative to hold subtle notes together, and keeps formulas smooth.

So if both DPG and TEC sound like useful ingredients on paper, where’s the problem, you may ask?

Good question. Now, let’s jump into the ‘problem.’

The Problem with Economics

The real issue isn’t in the inherent nature of the helpful oils, but rather it’s the intent and how they are used today. 

These oils, like DPG, are dirt cheap. You can easily obtain a kilo of it for just Rs. 2,000 if you shop right. Exactly how cheaper Iranian petroleum products were smuggled and mixed with our very own refined petrol to maximize profits, a similar approach is used in perfumery as well.

Authentic perfume oils can be expensive. For example, a kilogram of Ambroxan can cost up to Rs. 350,000. Although the quality does eventually become apparent when another solvent is used, at the same time, this is also a solvent, and so is DPG. 

Resellers, especially when they themselves buy oils at obnoxious rates, try to maximize profits by adding oils like DPG and TEC in the process. 

Now to that primary question: if these are good oils, where is the problem? 

Understanding Concentration and Its Impact

The industry practice for non-alcoholic oils is up to 40% of authentic perfume oil, and then the rest are other oils, such as DPG. Since the perfume oils, in general, are too harsh, they need a base oil to settle onto the skin; otherwise, it can cause irritation, contact dermatitis, allergic sensitization, or redness/rash.

Therefore, another solvent is essential. 

But when the composition turns upside down, it can still become a problem. Not for the skin but for the performance of your product. 

Let’s say a reseller purchases an “authentic” perfume which already comes diluted with other oils and only contains 30% of oil. Generally, the composition is still balanced, and 30% is a good enough starting point—although we at Firmil add much more!

But then, the reseller purchases it and only adds 30% of that already diluted oil and adds 70% of other ‘oil’ just to fill out the quantity. Since these oils like DPG are odorless, it doesn’t alter the scent, but only performance that you can not tell by only taking a sniff. 

That’s how you end up paying a hefty price for an “authentic” perfume oil that’s barely 5% perfume oil—if not less—and 95% other solvents or oils that serve no purpose other than filling out the bottle.

Impacts of not using enough perfume oils

Here’s what you can experience in such oils:

Terrible lasting power.

The thick perfume oil is what lasts. Not the other solvents with lighter molecules, only created to aid perfume oils perform better, not to overpower and cause the perfume oil to lose its qualities. Hence, even the most magical compositions with heavy ingredients get muted, literally, less than an hour after application.

No projection.

Projection is also a product of authentic perfume oil. These solvents, as we already discussed, are odorless and colorless. Oils or powders that actually make perfume oils project stronger are pretty expensive, as we looked at an example of Abroxan.

Ill reputation

If you are a morally respected reseller who sells without adding any extenders, it could still impact your overall seller reputation, as these oils do not perform well, and those with no know-how of the industry will assume you sell ‘lower quality’ products, eventually avoiding your business like the plague.

Now that we understand the malicious intent and the overall impact of such composition, let’s learn how to oil that doesn’t contain any unreasonable oils.

How to Spot Pure Perfume Oil (And Check for Extenders)

The best part is that you do not need expensive ingredients to test for authenticity. Here are four quick, practical tests you can do right at home to check what you’re actually paying for:

Put a drop on the paper strip or a blotter.

Pure fragrance oils evaporate at their natural speed and leave minimal greasy rings once fully absorbed over a day or two. High levels of DPG or TEC leave oily stains that won’t dry out if you beseech on your knees, keeping the paper dark and wet-looking for days to come.

Test absorption.

Apply a drop to the back of your hand and rub it lightly. If it feels warm, absorbs steadily, and releases a rich scent cloud, it’s authentic. 

Oil heavily diluted with DPG feels noticeably thick and abnormally sticky or slimy. It will sit on your skin for as long as if it’s planning on staying for a few days.

Drop a droplet into clean water.

Drop a small dab of the oil into a glass of warm water. Pure oils float smoothly on top as a clean layer. Blends heavy with solvents like DPG or alcohol-soluble extenders often turn the water slightly cloudy or hazy as the chemical solvent tries to dive deep.

Notice the scent’s evolution.

Pure perfume oils have a top layer, a middle or heart layer, and a base or a soul layer. All three come one after one as time passes. Vigorously adding other substances, such as those that we discussed, breaks this very routine and causes the oil to mix the layers into one.

If your oil smells flat from the very first minute, lacks punch, and feels "muffled" right out of the bottle, you have definitely been scammed, and you should speak to the guy you bought it from.

Pay for Oils That Actually Perform!

Tired of purchasing everything but authentic perfume oils in the name of ‘authentic perfume oils’?

We can totally understand because we have been in the industry for over 75 years!

Not only understand, but we can also help! We at Firmil are all about morals. This means no mixing of unusual substances, reasonable prices without excess, unrealistic markups, and a fantastic shopping experience that offers FREE DELIVERY on orders above Rs. 10,000.

On top of that, we have oils in every category. Check out our thick, rich, spicy Eastern oils, or fresh, fern, or citrusy Western oils. We have Premium oils and Signature ones that are worth wearing every day!

Come submerge in the world of authentic perfume oils! We only promise one thing: a quality you won’t find anywhere in the market.